India, since ancient times is known for its unique arts and crafts. Different types of hand printing techniques are used in this country by people of varied customs and culture. One of the most popular form of hand printing is - Hand block printing. This art of printing has been in use since ancient times, but now-a-days it has found place in metropolitan cities of India and also the garments with hand block printing are being exported to different countries worldwide.
Major Centers in India of Hand Block Printing
Gujarat (Surat, Ahmedabad, Sanganer, Pethapur).
Rajasthan (Bagru).
Andhra Pradesh.
Uttar Pradesh (Farukhabad).
West Bengal.
There are two types block printing famous in the states of Gujarat and Rajasthan namely- Sanganeri and Bagru. These two styles of block printing are almost same, the thing which primarily distinguish them from one another is the color of background on which they are printed. Bagru prints are done on black and red background whereas Sanganeri is done on white background. In western part of India the block prints are typically fine, however in eastern part the prints are bolder and bigger. Lepakshi and Ajarakh prints are also examples of the type of block prints. The unique feature of this printing is the amount of printing variations that can be made in the same type of motifs.
Different Techniques of Hand Block printing
Discharge Printing:Firstly the fabric on which printing is to be done is dyed. The dye is removed from the part of fabric on which designs are to be made by use of a chemical. Then those segments printed are treated so that they can be re-colored.
Direct Block Printing:The fabric used here is either cotton or silk. The cloth is first bleached, and then dyed with the desired color. After that block printing is done on borders with carved wooden blocks then inside the borders.
Resist Printing:In this technique the part of the cloth which is not to be dyed is covered with the paste of resin and clay. Then the fabric is dyed with the desirable color, at this stage the dye penetrates through the cracks which create wavy effect of colors on the cloth. After this the fabric is finally block printed.
Rich and colorful prints can be created through block printing. In olden times it was done with natural dyes but now it is done with artificial colors and synthetic dyes. The colors commonly used for printing are saffron, yellow, blue and red. The wooden blocks are used for printing. They are of different shapes and have designs carved at the bottom of the block. Teak wood is used for making them on which designs are made by skilled craftsman. These blocks are known as ‘Bunta’. Every block consists of a wooden handle and 2-3 holes which are made for the purpose of free movement of air. The blocks before taken into use are kept in oil for 10-15 days, which provide the them the softness required. Procedure of Hand Block Printing
At the beginning of the block printing process the fabric is first washed then bleached (if required). If the borders are to be made, then the cloth at the border area are tied then dyed. After that the fabric is spread on the printing table and fixed firmly with small pins on the table. The process of block printing is done from left to right. The wooden block is dipped in color tray then applied by pressing it hardly on the cloth. The point on the block facilitate in sequenced repeat printing.
Good printing skill and practice is necessary to get uniform and clear block printing. The time duration and costing for printing depends upon the number of different colors used i.e. single color printing takes less time and is of low cost whereas two or more colors printing requires more time, hard work and colors. Multiple design printing cannot be done by one printer only, so two or more printers are required to (according to the designs) do the job.
In block printing providing color variations is not an easy task. The colors are generally tested for their fastness and effect before applying on the garment. Different types of dyes are use for printing cotton fabric- such as indigo sol, pigment dyes and rapid fast dyes. The rapid dyes once prepared for printing have to be utilized on that day only. Pigment colors are used more as its procedure for usage is simpler compared to other dyes and after mixing them for printing it is not necessary to use them the same day only as they can stored for some time provided they have to be stored in containers having lids to cover it. The pigment colors before the application has to mixed in right proportion with kerosene and binder.
New shades are obtained by combination of basic colors in different proportions. The drawbacks of pigment colors are that, they consists of tiny particles which don’t dissolve completely as a result are left as residue on the fabric. Whereas, indigo sols and rapid dyes gets completely soaked into the cloth. Indigo sols do provide vibrant colors like pinks and greens. After printing the garment is dried in the sun, which fixes the dye to the cloth. Then each layer of cloth is rolled in newspaper and steamed in boilers. This procedure of steaming is done for both silk and cotton fabric. This steaming process is followed by washing, drying of fabric in the sun and at last ironing. This whole procedure fixes the print permanently on the garment.
Various garments like saris, kurtas, shirts, salwar kameez, dupattas, skirts, etc are made from block printed fabrics. In recent times the export of block printed garments have seen a steep increase as its demand has increased especially in western countries because of its durability and distinctive patterns and designs.
